Fall 2006, Engine installation has begun
We will probably install the engine next Spring after we complete the bottom work.
Re-built Universal Diesel to be installed later this Fall,
October 2006
I started out by sanding down the engine room from ceiling to floor. I needed to install a gas tank, raw water strainer, Racor fuel filter/water separator, electric fuel pump, vented loop and muffler. I built a fuel tank platform directly behind the engine. I cut stringers out of marine plywood and laminated two 1/2 inch pieces together using epoxy with adhesive filler mixed in. I then cut strips of roving woven and laminated the fiberglass strips over the top and sides of the stringers and onto the deck of the engine compartment. Once the epoxy kicked I coated a 1/2 inch piece of marine plywood (cut to the dimensions of the fuel tank) with epoxy on both sides and screwed it to the top of the stringers using stainless screws. The fuel platform is extremely strong and should have no trouble holding the Tempo 18 gallon diesel fuel tank (about 128 lb full). I mounted the fuel tank using the tempo cradle kit which are plastic coated straps. Some of the hardware that came with the hold down kit was zinc coated and not stainless. After ripping this boat apart and seeing what a salt water environment can do to zinc and galvanized metal I decided to install everything with brass and stainless hardware. So I purchased new stainless steel hardware for the tank cradle kit. I also purchased a diesel conversion kit for the fuel tank. Please correct me if I am wrong (steve@myholeinthewater.com) but $43.00 for another brand new fuel sender with a 25 cent return line input fitting added on is a bit much. Maybe Tempo should just sell a diesel fuel tank!
18 gal fuel tank
I cut some more plywood to mount on the sides of the engine compartment for mounting my engine systems to. I measured the areas where I would fix the plywood too and cut the pieces once again doubling up the wood and laminating the pieces together using epoxy mixed with adhesive filler. I then coated the boards with epoxy and applied finishing cloth over the face of each front and back. Once the epoxy dried I laid out the systems the way the mechanic who is installing my engine suggested. We went over the layout of the engine compartment and how best to mount everything that would make it easy for future maintenance. I drilled holes into the back of the boards and pushed stainless bolts through the back sides so all the systems mount flush and secure tightly with lock washers and bolts.
The raw water strainer (second photo) is mounted in the wrong place. I need to place it in a spot that is below the engine, the mechanic said that the strainer should remain lower then the engine so as to stay always topped off with sea water. When restarting the engine the raw water engine pump does not have to work as hard to draw cooling water into the engine.
Sea Strainer moved to behind battery compartment.
I purchase a 3 1/2 inch circular whole saw and cut out a circular piece that I used as a backing plate for the water intake thruhulls. I sanded the floor surface down and fiberglass the backing disk to the deck with epoxy mixed with adhesive filler. I also used some of the filler to build up a slope around the edges and then laminated a piece of woven roving over the top and down the sides of the thru hull backing disk. I plan on cutting and installing backing disk for all of my sailboat's thruhulls.
Some pictures of the engine compartment and the old Palmer engine in place before and after.
\
Engine going in!
New engine control panel
I found a place in Michigan that sold a control panel for my Universal M25 engine. I purchased the panel, engine wiring harness and alarm buzzer which will sound if the oil pressure or water temperature malfunction. The engine mechanic installed the harness on the engine and made sure everything functioned properly.
Hopefully the engine should be in place and hooked up later this month.
October 26, 2006
The M25 Universal engine is finally in the boat and working. It took many days to get the engine in place and I have yet to get the bill from the mechanic! The old wood stringers had to be cut down and new aluminum ones had to be cut and set in place. We must have moved the engine in and out of the engine compartment at least 6 times using a chain hoist suspended from a 1.5 inch diameter solid steel rod that sat on 2x4s across the companion way. We tied off the bar to the mast so as not to accidentally roll it off the coach roof and rolled the steel bar across the 2x4's thus moving the engine across the companion way and in and out of the engine compartment, each time checking the fit of the engine. When we finally had a proper fit I applied a coat of epoxy over the bare wood on the cut down stringers and waited for it to cure and then re-painted the bottom of the engine compartment. We had many problems with parts and things not fitting properly and trying to find a way to make them work but I had a good mechanic that was a diesel mechanic in the navy for more than 20 years and he always found a solution.
Once the engine was in place the mechanic aligned the transmission with the prop shaft by using engine shims to raise the front and lower the rear in line with the shaft coupling. Once the prop arrives from Michigan Wheel he will hook up the shaft coupling to the engine and then perform final alignment when the boat finally goes in the water.
Moving engine inside boat
Initial layout of aluminum stringers and shaft coupling
Final stringer placement, engine shims and engine in place with temporary water hose used for engine test.
Final hookups
Before starting the engine the mechanic changed the oil and antifreeze. I purchased 5 gallons of diesel fuel and poured it into the fuel tank. The mechanic started the fuel pump and opened up the diesel fuel bleeder nut and made sure all of the air was out of the system and then tighten up the bleeder nut. The engine started right up after setting for close to two years in storage. Below is a video I made of the initial startup using my still camera. I was able to compress the video and convert it to Windows Media Format. If you have a broadband connection you should be able to download it quickly, the file is about 3MB.
Windows Media Video of initial engine test! Place your cursor over the box to start movie. Video file is 3MB in length.